Summer Sewing...Alder 02 {Grainline Studio}

 

A brief update on summer sewing life... my love for Grainline Studio patterns continues with my new Alder shirtdress, a first View B (with the gathered side and back skirt sections). I skipped the pocket as the fabric is busy enough, and added some length but otherwise followed the pattern and it was smooth sailing...

The fabric is a John Lewis sale find so this dress was actually a bargain to make. Incidentally, you could probably use contrast binding or bought bias binding, and make this dress out of less fabric than the pattern requirements. I did buy the right amount as it was so cheap, but I have plenty left.

That's it for now. I have renamed this little spot; or rather pinched the name from an old personal blog of mine which has long been defunct. I have finally found my own space and am excited to make some 'homely' things as well as clothes.

Inspired by seeing this amazing (and pretty moving) exhibition; listening to Nick Mulvey, who was amazing at the Cambridge Folk Festival; planning my first make of this pattern, hurrah!

Elisalex dress {By Hand London }

My second By Hand London make, finally. I have a couple of BHL patterns from my summer job last year at a haberdashery, but I made the Anna dress twice and I'm not a massive fan  (although, note to self, I still need to finish converting my first go into a peplum-top, as my v-neckline was pretty flash). I'm not sure whether to size down again or that the slash-neck option really doesn't suit me. Anyway.

So, in short, I left BHL patterns alone for a while until the Elisalex came along. I made it up in some of my African wax-print cotton from a Goldhawk Road trip ( I say *some*,  I  still have metres of this!), pretty much on a whim one rainy afternoon. I really like it! It's just a nice, different dress style. 

It has a lined bodice with princess seams, a box-pleated tulip skirt and an exposed zipper- although I used an invisible zip, because I only had one of those to hand. It also has a cool low-scooped back, which I forgot to photograph. 

The skirt isn't as tulipy as I thought,- I think you would need stiffer fabric?- but then again the fabric is so busy that it wouldn't be worth it. The bodice lining instructions are so straightforward and came out really nicely, especially as I just used some leftover lemon poly-lining unpicked from a skirt I didn't like.

A pattern success then and I want to use this bodice with another skirt type too. Also, this fabric though.....true love :)

Alder Shirtdress {Grainline Studio}

My first Grainline Studio pattern! I am really impressed by these patterns (I already have an Archer shirt cut out as I write this). There is a nice level of challenge but it is still straightforward to sew with very clear instructions.

I used this lovely cotton poplin and made View A, which is the straight A-Line shirtdress with curved hems; it may not be fitted but it is so comfortable and just well-drafted. There is a gathered-shirt option (B) and the Grainline blog also gives you an impressive amount of variation choices.

My next plans for this would be a chambray/light denim View B and  plaid v-neck, cap-sleeved variation on View A. There is a boring lack of comment really as it's just such a nice pattern. It's no McCalls fitted shirtdress-type- it's supposed to be loose and boyish in silhouette, if that's what you want, but is is really lovely.

Cheap John Lewis button-success!

The pattern instructions leaves you with a beautiful finish inside; I think I am going to incorporate these instructions into other patterns I own to be honest

Colette Dahlia

I am not entirely sure why I am blogging this before other waiting-to-be-photographed makes but this pattern is seriously annoying me.

This is Dahlia no. 2 and it still does not fit right. The waistband yoke ended up being 3 inches too big. 3 inches, wtf. The waistband is kind of 'lumpy', for want of a better word- I am going to unpick the lining and see if I can make it lie better, although I think taking it in by so much at the side seam did not help  matters all that much.

However, my main rant stems from the neckline- which is vast. As in, almost-off-the shoulder vast. The pattern instructions have you gather the bodice last thing, but on this second try,  I did it first, thinking that would make it fit okay; but the back is still way too big. I put some darts in the back to pinch it in a bit before binding the neckline, but it is still big.

I am not by any means an expert seamstress, but I can follow patterns well and don't see where I am going wrong with this pattern. I made up this second one slowly and carefully, in the same frame of mind as the Sew Over It Tea Dress; but still found that pattern far easier. I think I might have to trace the bodice and yoke pieces and completely customise them to get a good fit; although I am determined to alter this and/or go back to my aborted first try, so that I have an ok-fitting dress. But....it is still giving me the rage.

On a positive, this cotton voile is drapey and lovely, so I kind of want to make this dress better to suit the fabric. But: it's a bit hard-going for a supposed beginner pattern isn't it. Sad faces all round....

Sew Over It 1940's Tea Dress & Conscious Sewing

I have been good with sewing clothes for myself each month and trying new patterns/skills...however remain pretty useless at documenting. Same old excuse- not enough time/space/light to record what I make. I'll be in my own space soonish which will hopefully have better natural light- or at least I will have a tripod or remote as some things don't photograph at all well on the hanger.

This  1940's Tea Dress would be one of them. It's lovely but looks like a weird sack when you hang it up! Anyway, this is my second Sew Over It pattern and I am pretty happy with it. I was pretty pleased with myself as I really took my time with this, hand sewing it in segments. I am glad I did as made it with this gorgeous, if insanely slippy, rayon; it was worth it in the end. It's a little big on the bodice- but its actually ok with this type of billowy fabric and very comfortable to wear. I am already looking forward to making more, a bright summery crepe and maybe even a dark silk for Christmas??

However, I am trying to have more of a sewing plan. I have been trying to record each make with notes (nerd alert part 1) and also make lists of what I need (like the perfect plain skirt) and then what I would like to wear....plus (full maximum nerdiness) skills I'd like to master. So, so far, different fabrics and more hand-basting (this dress!), tracing and grading patterns for a better fit, princess seams and lining....! Hopefully this will keep me on track making a true homemade wardrobe and also not being too limited in my skills.

A new Zinnia in bargain sale cotton, for work :) ~The list commanded, I made!!

Betty dress {Sew Over It}

AKA The perfect dress for a secret-ninja wedding party :)

 

I didn't want to start with a retrospective post but although I made this dress in December, it's still worth a mention.

This was my first go at making a Sew Over It pattern and it is a really lovely one. You end up with what it says on the packet, a beautiful vintage party frock with a huge circle skirt. It is difficult to photograph, especially in a narrow window of remaining daylight and 'assisted' by a cat who wanted to frolic on-camera if he could...but trust me, it's a lovely dress style. The one downside is it takes a lot of fabric- and this is from someone who gleefully squeezes every inch out of my fabric buys, layout plans be damned.

'Tis not that surprising as the massive hem alone gobbles fabric so I just waited until I had a larger stash of fabric, which turned out to be this thick print. I honestly have no idea now what kind of fabric this is to be honest, although I am guessing a rayon-y/viscose-y element...it is very heavy and looks kind of like upholstery material at first glance {!}, but I think makes a beautiful thick winter dress. It drapes very nicely and, though I did reinforce the waistband seams just in case, is holding up lovely.

Dress in full...

From memory, it was a straightforward pattern with lovely clear instructions with two queries. Well one, as my choice of fabric meant I wanted to strengthen the waist. However, I found the bodice neckline/ interfacing instructions pretty unwieldy. I think it tells you to pull through and sort when dress is assembled but I would definitely finish the bodice first, then attach to the skirt, next time. Mind you there is every chance I misread, and I was using the heaviest fabric possible, so will report back.

My hemming is also a disgrace on this dress but a circle skirt hides a multitude of hem sins...I hope!

All in all, I loved this pattern and I love this dress- which I made for a lovely friend's secret wedding so it holds great memories. I am definitely going to make a spring version soon.

Autumn in Paris Dress

(excuse the quality, this one is from my phone)

It goes without saying I am behind in both the making-of and the blogging-of projects, but I do have some more seasonally appropriate things to come! For now, this was another Laurel with a wider, faced neckline, a loose fit and bias-edged longer sleeves. I fell in love with this print and made it the day before I went on holiday to Paris at the end of October. The weather was glorious and mild and I was glad of a cotton dress to wear, believe it or not!

Moving House

Yeah it's another Laurel dress...but you don't need much fabric so I could make a whole dress from some Cath Kidston cotton duck and then call it a marvellous bargain. This counts as a September make but it's nice for autumn now too as the fabric is thicker and so feels nice with tights. Which is just as well as it's getting chillier....now for some wintry makes!

Bring Me Sunshine Dress

John Lewis have a whole range of products for their 150th anniversary, including the use of some special prints, and the anniversary fabric has been lovely. I got some on sale as well (and I still need to photograph the result) but fell in love with this summery floral cotton and decided to treat myself to a metre. As I wanted to keep costs down and not use any more than the 1m, a Laurel was my fail-safe option, with little cap sleeves, and lemon ribbon-bias rim for the neckline.

Since I made this dress, it has been a chilly and wet August (yay British summer!), so every chance I got to put it on I have- but finally photographed it after putting it on this morning. I know I have lots of Laurels and Laurel-related items, but I'm not too sorry :( There are some more different patterns coming up though...

Garden Party Dress | and not giving up

There are 2 patch pockets, they are just well-camoflaged....!

Zip neatness :)

This is a new-old dress. So I actually made this dress a while ago, from an old Simplicity pattern and this floral print cotton, which reminded me of Liberty print but was cheap as chips. The original pattern is a 60's shift dress with an interfaced neckline detail and optional 3/4 sleeves, which I've not described terribly well but is a nice-fitting pattern I have used before.

I had made the sleeved version, tried it on again earlier this summer and thought what in the name of.... I looked like I was wrapped in a nanna's tablecoth and it was as frumpy as all out- I actually stuck it in my fabric box. However, I went back to it and realised my neckline and my zip were pretty nice and it would be a shame to undo all that effort, so over a period of time, I unpicked the sleeves, finished the sleeveless armholes off and took the hem up. I used the sleeves to make some little patch pockets, which are actually almost invisible on the photo but I so like them. I have worn it alot in the recent hot weather so it's made me realise I don't always have to start from scratch to make something 'new' to wear....

Capturing The Castle Dress | Gather Patterns 'Mortmain'

A return to this ol' blog. I have been rather slack at photographing my efforts but this is my new dress, finished yesterday and worn today, hence the creases {as I am as impatient as they come}. 

It is a Gather 'Mortmain' and it was nice to try a new designer and pattern. I was rather swayed by the name {I love 'I Capture The Castle'}, but luckily I also like the dress!

I love this Anna Maria Horner fabric:

The pattern is pretty straightforward and simple and I quite like the hardier pattern paper they use. The exposed zip also makes it a bit different I think- but I don't see why you couldn't substitute.

I didn't make a toile- and I really need to start doing this. I think I will get onto that, to get the fit better as I had to take the skirt in and the bodice gaps quite a bit. I could probably move the darts to improve that- it's a nice summer dress so you would want it looser, but a better fit might be better.

I'll also own up to the fact that the pattern on the waistband is upside down. I was so determined to get the dress out of just under 2 metres (as that's how much of this I had!), that the waistband and facings were cut with some artfulness let's say- then I had no fabric at all left when I realised! But I'm going to maintain from here on that it's a contrasting waistband ;)

The Gather website is here....

Blue skies and party dresses

Not the best photo, but my new swirly-favourite dress- a little puff-sleeved shift in this gorgeous bright blue & white triangle cotton, with white bias binding on the neckline. I made it for an afternoon tea party and it feels so light and comfortable (although it does need a slip- the cotton really is fine!!).

Meet Me At Sunset, by the sea | a striped-jersey Colette 'Moneta'

Yup, it needs an iron...

Behold the in-seam pockets... :)

I made a real pig's ear of my first Moneta dress, so was worried it wasn't going to be for me but determined to make it again. Well, what do you know, it was straightforward and simple to sew in one evening (although hemmed and finished another). The worst part was cutting the rubbery/slippery knit fabric, and even then I was cutting it out on the floor whilst listening to Radio 4 so not ideal...! I'm so happy with this dress and can't wait to wear it to work tomorrow. It does help to cut true-to-size...Pure sew-and-wear pleasure, so a thumbs up for Moneta!

Hey Peony | Colette Peony 01

I was so happy to find a copy of the Peony pattern and bought this gorgeous cotton in honour of it. I love how it turned out and am excited to make another version now. I think this was version 2, although I added in in-seam pockets and didn't bother with the matching belt.

For some reason, the bodice ended up really big for me when I made a toile, so I cut it a bit smaller; but it was still loose. I've added in some back darts and the next job is to unpick and re-do the zip, shaping it a bit more. It's a lovely pattern though and once I get the bodice fit perfect, I think it might become a new favourite :)

Colette Moneta | and lessons in pattern-cutting

Oh, this dress, how I have hated you... With the arrival of a new pattern, all bundled up in tissue paper with some lovely teal-polka-dot knit fabric, I tore into it like a child at Christmas. I was feeling sorry for myself & home alone with the flu, what better activity than to make a pretty dress?! So first of all, I made an almighty mess of cutting it out. My first bodice was like a crop top {forgot to consider lengthening for my taller self}; my second was like a tent. Re-cut it you say? Why no, not when you can make myriad ill-considered adjustments which might have ended in sniffling tears at the sewing machine and a shapeless smock. Fortunately, all's well that {kind of} ends well... after a break from it, I have successfully made a smaller and have a wearable, albeit still loose dress.

Good things:

• I bought my fabric (and pattern) online- a first! The shop I found, Guthrie & Ghani, were fantastic too, very prompt and friendly, so I'm glad I gave them a try.
• This is my first whirl with the new Colette Moneta pattern and I have since established it is going to be a favourite, for easy pretty dresses. It's not you, it's me, etc. etc.

Lessons learned:

• Don't start cutting a pattern when you have the flu.
• Don't then attempt to make up a whole dress in one afternoon when you have the flu. 
• With new patterns, maybe don't try that at all...
• On that note, don't attempt to 'fix' it when you have the flu.
• Measure yourself first, damn it!