Elisalex dress {By Hand London }

My second By Hand London make, finally. I have a couple of BHL patterns from my summer job last year at a haberdashery, but I made the Anna dress twice and I'm not a massive fan  (although, note to self, I still need to finish converting my first go into a peplum-top, as my v-neckline was pretty flash). I'm not sure whether to size down again or that the slash-neck option really doesn't suit me. Anyway.

So, in short, I left BHL patterns alone for a while until the Elisalex came along. I made it up in some of my African wax-print cotton from a Goldhawk Road trip ( I say *some*,  I  still have metres of this!), pretty much on a whim one rainy afternoon. I really like it! It's just a nice, different dress style. 

It has a lined bodice with princess seams, a box-pleated tulip skirt and an exposed zipper- although I used an invisible zip, because I only had one of those to hand. It also has a cool low-scooped back, which I forgot to photograph. 

The skirt isn't as tulipy as I thought,- I think you would need stiffer fabric?- but then again the fabric is so busy that it wouldn't be worth it. The bodice lining instructions are so straightforward and came out really nicely, especially as I just used some leftover lemon poly-lining unpicked from a skirt I didn't like.

A pattern success then and I want to use this bodice with another skirt type too. Also, this fabric though.....true love :)

Alder Shirtdress {Grainline Studio}

My first Grainline Studio pattern! I am really impressed by these patterns (I already have an Archer shirt cut out as I write this). There is a nice level of challenge but it is still straightforward to sew with very clear instructions.

I used this lovely cotton poplin and made View A, which is the straight A-Line shirtdress with curved hems; it may not be fitted but it is so comfortable and just well-drafted. There is a gathered-shirt option (B) and the Grainline blog also gives you an impressive amount of variation choices.

My next plans for this would be a chambray/light denim View B and  plaid v-neck, cap-sleeved variation on View A. There is a boring lack of comment really as it's just such a nice pattern. It's no McCalls fitted shirtdress-type- it's supposed to be loose and boyish in silhouette, if that's what you want, but is is really lovely.

Cheap John Lewis button-success!

The pattern instructions leaves you with a beautiful finish inside; I think I am going to incorporate these instructions into other patterns I own to be honest

Colette Dahlia

I am not entirely sure why I am blogging this before other waiting-to-be-photographed makes but this pattern is seriously annoying me.

This is Dahlia no. 2 and it still does not fit right. The waistband yoke ended up being 3 inches too big. 3 inches, wtf. The waistband is kind of 'lumpy', for want of a better word- I am going to unpick the lining and see if I can make it lie better, although I think taking it in by so much at the side seam did not help  matters all that much.

However, my main rant stems from the neckline- which is vast. As in, almost-off-the shoulder vast. The pattern instructions have you gather the bodice last thing, but on this second try,  I did it first, thinking that would make it fit okay; but the back is still way too big. I put some darts in the back to pinch it in a bit before binding the neckline, but it is still big.

I am not by any means an expert seamstress, but I can follow patterns well and don't see where I am going wrong with this pattern. I made up this second one slowly and carefully, in the same frame of mind as the Sew Over It Tea Dress; but still found that pattern far easier. I think I might have to trace the bodice and yoke pieces and completely customise them to get a good fit; although I am determined to alter this and/or go back to my aborted first try, so that I have an ok-fitting dress. But....it is still giving me the rage.

On a positive, this cotton voile is drapey and lovely, so I kind of want to make this dress better to suit the fabric. But: it's a bit hard-going for a supposed beginner pattern isn't it. Sad faces all round....

Sew Over It 1940's Tea Dress & Conscious Sewing

I have been good with sewing clothes for myself each month and trying new patterns/skills...however remain pretty useless at documenting. Same old excuse- not enough time/space/light to record what I make. I'll be in my own space soonish which will hopefully have better natural light- or at least I will have a tripod or remote as some things don't photograph at all well on the hanger.

This  1940's Tea Dress would be one of them. It's lovely but looks like a weird sack when you hang it up! Anyway, this is my second Sew Over It pattern and I am pretty happy with it. I was pretty pleased with myself as I really took my time with this, hand sewing it in segments. I am glad I did as made it with this gorgeous, if insanely slippy, rayon; it was worth it in the end. It's a little big on the bodice- but its actually ok with this type of billowy fabric and very comfortable to wear. I am already looking forward to making more, a bright summery crepe and maybe even a dark silk for Christmas??

However, I am trying to have more of a sewing plan. I have been trying to record each make with notes (nerd alert part 1) and also make lists of what I need (like the perfect plain skirt) and then what I would like to wear....plus (full maximum nerdiness) skills I'd like to master. So, so far, different fabrics and more hand-basting (this dress!), tracing and grading patterns for a better fit, princess seams and lining....! Hopefully this will keep me on track making a true homemade wardrobe and also not being too limited in my skills.

A new Zinnia in bargain sale cotton, for work :) ~The list commanded, I made!!

Betty dress {Sew Over It}

AKA The perfect dress for a secret-ninja wedding party :)

 

I didn't want to start with a retrospective post but although I made this dress in December, it's still worth a mention.

This was my first go at making a Sew Over It pattern and it is a really lovely one. You end up with what it says on the packet, a beautiful vintage party frock with a huge circle skirt. It is difficult to photograph, especially in a narrow window of remaining daylight and 'assisted' by a cat who wanted to frolic on-camera if he could...but trust me, it's a lovely dress style. The one downside is it takes a lot of fabric- and this is from someone who gleefully squeezes every inch out of my fabric buys, layout plans be damned.

'Tis not that surprising as the massive hem alone gobbles fabric so I just waited until I had a larger stash of fabric, which turned out to be this thick print. I honestly have no idea now what kind of fabric this is to be honest, although I am guessing a rayon-y/viscose-y element...it is very heavy and looks kind of like upholstery material at first glance {!}, but I think makes a beautiful thick winter dress. It drapes very nicely and, though I did reinforce the waistband seams just in case, is holding up lovely.

Dress in full...

From memory, it was a straightforward pattern with lovely clear instructions with two queries. Well one, as my choice of fabric meant I wanted to strengthen the waist. However, I found the bodice neckline/ interfacing instructions pretty unwieldy. I think it tells you to pull through and sort when dress is assembled but I would definitely finish the bodice first, then attach to the skirt, next time. Mind you there is every chance I misread, and I was using the heaviest fabric possible, so will report back.

My hemming is also a disgrace on this dress but a circle skirt hides a multitude of hem sins...I hope!

All in all, I loved this pattern and I love this dress- which I made for a lovely friend's secret wedding so it holds great memories. I am definitely going to make a spring version soon.

Create

Back to it....this blog hasn't been that consistent but it is still a record of things made and lessons learned last year, so worth returning to- complete with some resolutions made so far in 2015.

1. Try new patterns and extend skills. The year started with lovely gifts of new patterns like Grainline 'Archer' and Sew Over It '1940's Tea Party Dress' to spur me on. I am also trying to go through patterns bought and not attempted- the first one being the By Hand London 'Victoria'. Some focused fabric sale-shopping means I am ready to start; shirts and blazers here I come! Which brings me neatly to...
2. Shop carefully. I love all things fabric. But this year I am making a conscious effort to buy fabric with a specific project in mind and sew with a plan. Or more of a plan.
3. Learn more about adapting and even drafting patterns...So far this week I have been able to dress handmade every day but I want to be able to plan and create a handmade wardrobe...
4. Make some pattern blocks... trace pattern pieces from things I have made and grade them to get fit right. 

Resolutions aside, I love sewing clothes more and more. Case in point, tonight's rather simple cooking endeavours resulted in an unbelievable amount of mess with little output, and me flapping the door open to de-steam the kitchen. But neatening some facing on a dress and tidying my sewing supplies in from of Wolf Hall? Calm in the storm.

Autumn in Paris Dress

(excuse the quality, this one is from my phone)

It goes without saying I am behind in both the making-of and the blogging-of projects, but I do have some more seasonally appropriate things to come! For now, this was another Laurel with a wider, faced neckline, a loose fit and bias-edged longer sleeves. I fell in love with this print and made it the day before I went on holiday to Paris at the end of October. The weather was glorious and mild and I was glad of a cotton dress to wear, believe it or not!